LAURA CALDER: A Breath of French Air

LAURA CALDER: A Breath of French Air

Magical Marseille

with recommendations for your little black book

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Laura Calder
Mar 12, 2026
∙ Paid
When you go to Marseille, it's hard not to want to stay.

Our trip to Marseille, France’s largest port city on the Mediterranean and its second most populated overall, was almost accidental. We’d originally planned to spend only a night there before burrowing deeper into Provence to visit people in the country. However, a cancelled flight led to those people being trapped abroad, so we found ourselves suddenly with four days stretching ahead of us in a city that, admittedly, I’d always suspected I wouldn’t overly like. Port cities do tend to have reputations, after all…

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