How to Cook a Life

Teachings from the tenzos

My favourite apron is on its last strings and, silly though it sounds, I’m in mourning. It’s made of an eco-textile in calming pale blue and has a trusty clip at the back, rather than bulky ties, which makes it fall over the body in a flattering, streamlined way. I’ve had it for over 15 years and slip it over my head every night before the dinner hour. …